Maple Spam Shakoy
Every morning, when my mom was a child, my Lolo and Lola would pack produce from the farm into large woven baskets, load them onto tricycles—sometimes one, sometimes three, depending on the harvest—and wheel off toward the market in Paniqui, spinning dust into the air. Together they’d sell the day’s goods, keeping an eye out for their suki (special repeat customers). The suki system is the foundation of Philippine market culture. It’s essentially an unspoken agreement between buyers and sellers, a form of loyalty that generates repeat customers and vendors you can count on. And my grandparents depended on it. On weekends, they would set up their market stall even earlier. Once their bounty sold, my Lola switched from suki seller to suki buyer (the term applies to both parties). Before returning home, she’d pick up pasalubong (gifts) for the kids. Usually something sweet. Usually, shakoy—a twisted yeast doughnut dusted with shimmering sugar.
I make mine with bread flour for an extra downy chew. Each plush braid wears a veil of satiny maple icing and a generous shower of crispy golden sprinkles, courtesy of fried, finely chopped Spam (a tenured staple of my pantry). For me, it’s the best alliance of sweet and salty.
This recipe was excerpted from ‘Sugarcane’ by Arlyn Osborne. Buy the full book on Amazon.
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What you’ll need
Deep Fry / Candy Thermometer
$32 $20 At Amazon
Recipe information
Yield
Makes 16 doughnuts
Ingredients
For the doughnuts
For the crispy Spam and maple glaze
Preparation
Make the doughnuts
Step 1
In a small saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Whisk in the milk and heat until an instant-read thermometer registers between 110° and 115°F.
Step 2
Remove from the heat. Add the sugar, sprinkle the yeast over top, and whisk to combine. Let sit undisturbed until foamy, about 5 minutes. Whisk in the egg and egg yolk.
Step 3
Fit a stand mixer with the dough hook. In the stand mixer bowl, whisk together the flour and salt. Add the yeast mixture and stir with a fork until a sticky dough comes together.
Step 4
Fasten the bowl into the stand mixer and knead on medium speed, scraping down the sides of the bowl a couple times throughout, until the dough is smooth, firm, and no longer sticky, 8 to 10 minutes.
Step 5
Grease a large bowl with cooking spray. Shape the dough into a ball and place it in the bowl. Flip the dough over (this greases both sides). Cover tightly with plastic wrap. Let rise in a warm place until puffed and nearly doubled in volume, about 1 hour 15 minutes.
Step 6
Press the dough down with your fist to expel the air and transfer to an unfloured work surface. Divide the dough into 16 equal portions (about 39 g each). Keep the portions loosely covered with plastic wrap while you work.
Step 7
Line two sheet pans with parchment paper. Working with one portion of dough at a time, roll it back and forth on your work surface until it forms a 15-inch long rope. Bring the two ends together and twist the dough a few times (I find this is easier to do with the dough flat on the work surface, not in the air). Arrange the twists, evenly spaced apart, on the lined sheet pans.
Step 8
Cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let rise in a warm place until puffed and swollen (they won’t be quite doubled in volume), about 30 minutes.
Step 9
Attach a candy or digital probe thermometer to a heavy pot or Dutch oven and fill with 2 inches of neutral oil. Heat the oil to 375°F. Set a wire rack inside a foil-lined sheet pan and set beside the stovetop.
Step 10
Carefully add 3 of the dough twists to the hot oil. Fry until golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Transfer to the prepared rack. Repeat with the remaining dough twists.
Make the crispy Spam
Step 11
Place a fine-mesh sieve over a medium heatproof bowl and set beside the stovetop. Line a plate with paper towels.
Step 12
Into a large nonstick skillet, carefully ladle just enough of the oil used for frying the doughnuts to create a thin layer across the entire surface of the pan. Heat over medium-low heat. Add the chopped Spam and spread out into an even layer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and crisp, 12 to 15 minutes. Watch out for splattering and reduce the heat if needed.
Step 13
Drain the fried Spam in the sieve and then transfer to the paper towels to drain further.
Make the maple glaze
Step 14
In a small saucepan, add the butter and maple syrup and cook over low heat until the butter is melted, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the powdered sugar and maple extract. Let rest for 5 minutes to allow the glaze to thicken up a bit.
To assemble
Step 15
Dip the top of a doughnut into the glaze and set it back onto the prepared rack. Sprinkle with crispy Spam. Repeat with the remaining doughnuts, glaze, and Spam. If the glaze gets too thick as you’re working, reheat it over low heat to thin it back out.
Step 16
Store at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 2 days.
