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Mentaiko Spaghetti

Mentaiko spaghetti in a bowl with chopsticks
Photo by Rick Poon

Mentaiko pasta was invented by the chef of Kabe-no-Ana (Hole in the Wall), a restaurant in my old neighborhood of Shibuya in Tokyo that has been in existence since the 1950s. I used to hang out there with my girlfriends. It’s an affordable, unpretentious place that serves an amazing array of wafu pastas. I like mentaiko spaghetti because the only cooking you do is the pasta. You just toss the hot pasta in the bowl of roe, butter, and olive oil, and that’s it.

Recipe information

  • Total Time

    30 minutes

  • Yield

    3–4 servings

Ingredients

14 oz. (400 g) spaghetti
1 large garlic clove, halved
3½ oz. (100 g) mentaiko (cured Alaskan pollack; about 4 pieces)
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
1 tsp. soy sauce
1 tsp. lemon juice
1 tsp. lemon zest
8 fresh shiso leaves, thinly sliced, for garnish
½ sheet dried nori seaweed, cut into thin strips, for garnish (keep in a resealable plastic bag until ready to use)
Lemon wedges, to serve

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Cook 14 oz. (400 g) spaghetti to al dente following package instructions. Drain, reserving some of the cooking liquid.

    Step 2

    While the pasta is cooking, rub a large bowl with 1 large garlic clove, halved. Use the garlic for another dish.

    Step 3

    Puncture the skin of 3½ oz. (100 g) mentaiko (cured Alaskan pollack; about 4 pieces) and scrape out the roe into a large bowl. Discard the skin. Save 1 Tbsp. roe in a small bowl for garnish, if you like.

    Step 4

    Add 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened, 1 tsp. soy sauce, 1 tsp. lemon juice, and 1 tsp. lemon zest, and whisk to combine.

    Step 5

    Add the cooked pasta to the mentaiko mixture and toss to combine. If the pasta looks dry, add a couple tablespoons of the pasta water and continue tossing until the broth emulsifies.

    Step 6

    Distribute the mentaiko pasta between four plates. Garnish with 8 fresh shiso leaves, thinly sliced, and ½ sheet dried nori seaweed, cut into thin strips, and nori. Serve immediately with lemon wedges, if you like.

Cover of Wafu Cooking: Everyday Recipes with Japanese Style: A Cookbook with knives, fish, pots illustration
From Wafu Cooking by Sonoko Sakai. Copyright © 2024 by Sonoko Sakai. Excerpted by permission of Alfred A. Knopf, a division of Penguin Random House LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher. Buy the full book from Amazon or Bookshop.

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